Adventures in Southern California

Visiting Verona, The Gem of Northern Italy.

castles, ebike, Europe, italy, pizza, verona

Verona Italy

Verona is my favorite city in northern Italy, and I would definitely recommend spending a couple of nights here if you're traveling between Venice and Rome. September is a great time to visit, when the weather is still warm enough to eat outside and explore the city on foot. Verona is easy to reach by train from either Venice or Rome, and you don't need to rent a car. Just get off at Verona Porta Nuova station and walk into the historic center, which takes about 15 minutes. We stayed at a hotel right next to Porta Borsari, a beautiful Roman gate that was built in the 1st century. It's pretty amazing to have something nearly 2,000 years old right outside your hotel.

One of the best things about Verona is its huge pedestrian friendly historic center. The city center is a UNESCO world heritage site. You can spend hours walking through the narrow streets, shopping, visiting churches, and stopping at outdoor restaurants. There are tons of jewelry shops, clothing stores, and little boutiques throughout town. Verona is also famous as the setting for Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet. The city has some amazing market days, especially around Piazza delle Erbe, a beautiful square surrounded by colorful historic buildings. This is a great place to buy souvenirs, browse the market stalls, grab a drink, and just enjoy the atmosphere.

The biggest attraction in Verona is the Arena di Verona, one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world. Built in the 1st century AD, it looks like a smaller version of the Colosseum in Rome, but it's still in use 2,000 years later. The arena in Verona still hosts concerts and large opera performances. It's located in Piazza Bra, one of the city's largest and most beautiful squares. I would definitely recommend sitting outside at Ristorante Nastro Azzurro, right near the Arena, for a great Italian meal. It's a fantastic place to enjoy some pasta, pizza, and wine while looking out at the ancient Roman amphitheater. You have to reserve a table most nights because it gets insanely busy for dinner around the arena.

Another thing I would recommend is walking across Ponte Pietra, the beautiful Roman-era stone bridge crossing the Adige River. The views of the river, old buildings, and surrounding hills are amazing, especially in the late afternoon. You can also rent bicycles at locations throughout the city and ride along the riverbanks. It's a great way to see more of Verona without spending the entire day walking. The river winds around the historic center, and there are some beautiful stretches to explore by bike. Don't miss the medieval Castelvecchio and its fortified bridge if you're interested in castles and history.

Verona is one of those cities where you really don't need a packed itinerary. Most of the major attractions are within walking distance of each other, and half the fun is just wandering around the pedestrian streets, checking out the markets, and finding a good place to eat outside. I would recommend staying at least two nights so you can enjoy the city during the day and again in the evening when the squares fill with people. If you're traveling through northern Italy by train, Verona is absolutely worth adding to your itinerary. It's beautiful, easy to get around, full of history, and has some of the best outdoor dining atmosphere you'll find in Italy.

Italy High Speed Train Route to Verona

Verona Italy

Arena di Verona

Verona Italy

Zermatt Switzerland: Skiing the Matterhorn

disney, Europe, matterhorn, mountains, snowboarding, switzerland

Zermatt Switzerland

If you're planning a ski trip to Europe, Zermatt Switzerland, should be near the top of your list. It's one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited, with enormous snow covered mountains and some of the best skiing in the Alps. Getting there from Los Angeles is easier than you might think. We flew from LAX to Geneva and took the train all the way to Zermatt. The train ride takes about four hours and is absolutely beautiful the entire way. You'll pass Lake Geneva, small Swiss towns, mountain valleys, and ski villages surrounded by the Alps. We even saw people getting off at little train stations wearing their ski clothes, heading straight for the slopes. The train transfers are easy, with small stations that are simple to navigate. From Geneva, you'll transfer at Visp to the mountain railway, which passes through Täsch before arriving in Zermatt. You can also fly into Zurich, which has direct flights from LAX, although Geneva has usually been cheaper when I've searched.

One of the best things about Zermatt is the town itself. It's almost entirely car free, with pedestrian streets, mini electric taxis, restaurants, bars, and shops within easy walking distance. You definitely don't need a rental car. Despite Zermatt's reputation as an expensive luxury ski destination, I've found hotels right in town for around $1,000 for an entire week in February. Restaurants are expensive, but honestly, the prices aren't much different from what we're used to paying in California. The grocery stores are surprisingly reasonable. If you're trying to save money, you can easily pick up breakfast, snacks, and a few meals without spending a fortune. Lift tickets start around 92 Swiss francs per day, about $110 USD, although prices change depending on the dates.

The skiing is what makes Zermatt so special. The mountain is enormous, and because part of the ski area sits on a glacier at very high elevation, it has some of the most reliable snow conditions in Europe. You can even ski on the glacier during parts of the summer. The ride up to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is easily the most amazing gondola ride I've ever taken. You're suspended high above glaciers and giant mountain peaks, with views that almost don't look real. At the top, you're nearly 13,000 feet above sea level, and there's an incredible ice cave called the Glacier Palace, carved right into the glacier with ice sculptures and tunnels. It's definitely worth seeing, even if you aren't skiing. We visited in February during the middle of the week, and I couldn't believe how empty the mountain was.

Skiing into Italy from Zermatt: One of the coolest things about skiing in Zermatt is that you can actually ski across the international border into Italy. The Matterhorn Ski Paradise connects Zermatt with the Italian resorts of Cervinia and Valtournenche, giving you access to a massive network of ski runs in two different countries. You can ski down from the glacier into Cervinia, enjoy some Italian food for lunch, and then take the lifts back into Switzerland the same afternoon. The Italian side has some beautiful, wide-open runs with incredible views of the Matterhorn from a completely different angle. You'll need to purchase the international ski pass, which costs more than the regular Zermatt pass, but it's worth considering for at least one day. Just make sure to check the weather and the last lift times before crossing the border. The high-altitude connection sometimes closes because of strong winds, and you definitely don't want to get stranded in Italy after the lifts close. We never waited in a single lift line the entire trip. It felt like we had this massive mountain almost entirely to ourselves.

Zermatt has some excellent restaurants, although eating out every night can get expensive. Saycheese! is a great place to try traditional Swiss fondue and raclette. Golden Lok is a good option for Italian food and amazing pizza. One restaurant you absolutely shouldn't miss is Restaurant Furri, located right on the mountain. We stopped there for lunch while skiing, and I had the best French onion soup I've ever eaten. The Brown Cow Pub is another favorite, especially if you're looking for something more casual and reasonably priced. They have amazing chicken wings, good burgers, and a fun pub atmosphere.

The nightlife in Zermatt is decent, but it's definitely quieter than Chamonix, France. The crowd tends to be a little older, and many of the restaurants and bars close fairly early. One exception is the Brown Cow Pub, which stays open until 2 AM and is one of the better places to hang out after dinner. Another place I highly recommend is Alex Lounge Bar & Fumoir at Hotel Alex. We had some insanely good Mai Tais there, If you're looking for a wild après-ski scene, Chamonix definitely has the edge, but Zermatt still has plenty of good places to eat and drink.

Zermatt is more expensive than many other ski resorts in Europe, but I think it's worth the extra money. It's cheaper than skiing in Lake Tahoe or Mammoth. The scenery in Zermatt is unmatched, the skiing is incredible, and during our midweek February visit, the slopes were practically empty. Standing at the top of Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, surrounded by enormous snow-covered peaks in every direction, really does feel like you're standing on top of the world.

Zermatt Switzerland

The Matterhorn

Zermatt Switzerland

Glacier Paradise

Zermatt Switzerland

Geneva Switzerland

Tips for visiting Zermatt

Chamonix France: One of the Best Ski Towns in Europe

Europe, france, snowboarding

Chamonix France

Chamonix is one of the largest and best ski towns in Europe. One of the best things about Chamonix is that it's a real town, not just a ski resort. The town center has a pedestrian only walking street filled with restaurants, bars, bakeries, and shops. Everything in the center is within walking distance, so you don’t need a car. The food and the nightlife is amazing. There are plenty of places to grab a beer after skiing, great restaurants serving traditional French food, and bars that stay busy late into the night.

Getting to Chamonix from California is pretty straightforward. You can typically find roundtrip flights from LAX to Geneva Switzerland for $600-700 on Swiss and Lufthansa. I’ve flown both airlines multiple times and they have been great. Once you land in Geneva, you take a car or bus into Chamonix. Geneva is a smaller airport and it’s very easy to get around. The trip from Geneva to Chamonix takes about 75 minutes. Condos and hotels in Chamonix are very affordable compared with major American ski resorts. If you book early and avoid the busiest holiday weeks, you can sometimes find a really nice condo with a kitchen, balcony, and mountain views for less than $900 for an entire week. I would recommend staying close to the pedestrian center so you can walk to restaurants and bars every night.

There are four major ski areas in the Chamonix Valley. Les Houches is a great choice for beginners, with plenty of easier terrain and beautiful runs through the trees. Flégère is one of my favorites for intermediate skiers, with wide-open slopes and incredible views of Mont Blanc. Brévent has more challenging terrain, while Grands Montets is particularly popular with advanced skiers. The Balme ski area near Le Tour is another good option for intermediate skiers. The resorts are spread throughout the valley, but the ski buses connect them, and bus transportation is free if you have a lift ticket. Lift tickets in Chamonix are much cheaper than comparably sized American resorts. You can find some options in the $65 range per day. For the 2026–27 winter season, standard adult day passes are €60 at Les Houches and €76.50 for Chamonix Le Pass during the main season. There are better deals online for multi-day passes if you shop around.

Even if you aren't skiing every day, there is plenty to see around Chamonix. Do not skip the Aiguille du Midi cable car, which takes you 12,600 feet above sea level for insane views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding Alps. You can even walk into a glass observation box suspended over a huge drop. The views from the top are indescribable.

Another thing that makes Chamonix such a great destination is its proximity to Italy. You can take a bus through the Mont Blanc Tunnel, which runs directly underneath the Alps, and arrive in Courmayeur Italy in about 45 minutes. Courmayeur is a beautiful Italian mountain town with cobblestone streets, excellent restaurants, and its own ski resort. It's a great place to spend a day eating Italian food, exploring the village, or skiing on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. It's pretty amazing that you can ski in France one day and Italy the next without having to change hotels. The weather can be completely different on the Italian side of the Alps.

I would also recommend visiting Megève and Annecy while you're in the region. Megève is about a 45 minute drive from Chamonix and is a beautiful upscale French ski village with traditional Alpine architecture, cobblestone streets, and awesome restaurants. Annecy is a little farther away, roughly 90 minutes by car or bus, but it's absolutely worth the trip. The medieval old town is filled with canals, colorful buildings, restaurants, and historic churches. Lake Annecy is one of the most beautiful lakes in Europe, with walking and biking paths along the water. Once you’ve spent a week in Chamonix, it may be hard for you to go back to skiing and boarding in the US. Between the superior views, food, nightlife, bakeries and the lower prices, I’ve gotten hooked on European ski towns.

Chamonix Ski Areas

Chamonix France

Escalante, The Dog Friendly National Park

camping utah, glamping, Slot Canyon, Utah hiking, utah waterfall

Escalante: the dog friendly National Park

One of my favorite places to hike in Utah is Escalante National Monument. It's not technically a national park, but it has some of the most spectacular scenery in the Southwest, with huge sandstone cliffs, slot canyons, natural bridges, waterfalls, and miles of desert trails. It is officially designated as the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) rather than the National Park Service. Unlike nearby Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks, Escalante is also extremely dog friendly. Dogs are allowed on most trails in the monument, although there are a few exceptions. The really narrow slot canyons aren't suitable for dogs, and some have restrictions, but you can hike to the entrances of many of them with your dog. It's a great alternative to the national parks if you like hiking with your pets.

I would recommend visiting Escalante between June and November if you want to enjoy the warmer weather and seasonal businesses, although September and October are probably the best months for hiking. Summer can be extremely hot, and afternoon thunderstorms can cause flash floods. The town of Escalante is small, with a handful of restaurants, hotels, and campgrounds. Many of the businesses are dog friendly, including outdoor dining and pet-friendly camping options. Escalante Outfitters is a great place to grab pizza after hiking, and Ofland Escalante has some really cool accommodations, including cabins and camping optionsA lot of the town's restaurants and campgrounds close or reduce their hours during the winter and don't fully reopen until spring, although the monument itself remains open year-round.

Lower Calf Creek Falls

This is probably my favorite hike in Escalante and one of the best waterfall hikes in Utah. The trail follows Calf Creek through a beautiful sandstone canyon before reaching an incredible 126 foot waterfall that drops into a natural pool. The hike is about six miles round trip and is relatively flat, although sections of deep sand make it more challenging than you might expect. It’s a great hike to do after a light rain because it compacts the sand and makes it easier to walk in. The waterfall is also better after a rain. There is very little shade along parts of the trail, so bring plenty of water and sunscreen, especially during summer. Dogs are welcome, and the trailhead is right off paved Highway 12 at the Calf Creek Campground. There is a $5 parking fee that you pay by dropping cash in the self pay envelope. America the Beautiful pass holders can park for free. The campground has only a limited number of sites, and it’s first come first served, so it's worth arriving early.

Zebra Slot Canyon

Zebra Slot is one of the most unusual slot canyons in Utah. The walls have incredible pink, orange, and white stripes that look almost unreal. The hike is around five miles round trip, starting from Hole In the Rock Road. The trail crosses open desert before reaching a very narrow canyon that sometimes has standing water inside. Dogs are allowed on the approach trail, but I wouldn't recommend taking them into the actual slot because it gets incredibly narrow. You can also visit nearby Tunnel Slot Canyon if you have extra time. The road to the trailhead is dirt and can become impassable after rain. You do have to cross the creek a few times, so you’ll have wet feet at the end of this hike.

Escalante Natural Bridge

The Escalante Natural Bridge Trail is another great hike that starts right off Highway 12. The trail follows the Escalante River through a canyon surrounded by huge sandstone walls. You'll cross the river several times, so expect to get your feet wet on this hike too. After about 1.6 miles, you reach a massive natural bridge carved into the sandstone. It's around 3.2 miles round trip to the bridge, although you can extend the hike farther down the canyon. Dogs are allowed on leash, and the river makes this a nice option when temperatures are warm. Avoid the hike after heavy rain or when the river is running high.

Boulder Mail Trail

If you're looking for a longer and more challenging hike, the Boulder Mail Trail is an excellent choice. This historic route once connected the towns of Escalante and Boulder and crosses some beautiful slickrock terrain with huge sandstone formations and incredible views. You can hike a shorter section or continue all the way to Death Hollow for a strenuous 10.8 mile round trip. There are steep sections, very little shade, and some exposed rock, so this is better suited to experienced hikers. Dogs are permitted on leash, but be careful around the steep drop offs and slick rocks. Bring plenty of water and download your trail map before leaving town because cell service is unreliable

Spooky Gulch

Spooky Gulch is one of the most famous slot canyons in Escalante. The canyon gets so narrow in places that you actually have to turn sideways to squeeze between the walls. It's a really fun adventure, but definitely not for anyone who is claustrophobic. Most hikers combine Spooky Gulch with nearby Peek-a-Boo Slot Canyon for a longer loop. There are sections that require scrambling over rocks and squeezing through tight passages. Dogs should not enter the narrow slots, although you can explore the approach trails with them. The trailhead is located about 26 miles down Hole In The Rock Road, so check road conditions before going. The first 13 miles of the road are paved, but it turns into an unpaved dirt road that can get pretty nasty after a rainstorm. You’ll need a vehicle with high clearance, 4WD, or some chains. Avoid any slot canyon hike when rain is forecast, even if the storm is miles away.

Devils Garden

Devils Garden is a great quick stop along Hole In The Rock Road. You can wander around huge sandstone formations, natural arches, and strange-looking hoodoos without doing a long hike. It's one of the easiest places to visit in Escalante and especially beautiful around sunset. Dogs are allowed on the trail. The road to the Devil’ Garden in Paved until the last 2 miles.

Upper Calf Creek Falls

2 miles round trip , Strenuous descent, Dogs permitted, but not recommended

Upper Calf Creek Falls is much shorter than the lower falls hike, but it's also considerably steeper. The trail descends slickrock into a beautiful canyon with waterfalls and natural pools. It's a great alternative if you've already visited Lower Calf Creek Falls, but the steep terrain is a poor choice for dogs.

A great rainy day alternative: Kodachrome Basin State Park

If rain is in the forecast, skip the slot canyons and visit nearby Kodachrome Basin State Park instead. It's about 45 minutes west of Escalante and has some fantastic hikes, including the Panorama Trail and Grand Parade Trail. Panorama is around 3–6 miles depending on the route, while Grand Parade is an easier 1.5 mile loop. The park has beautiful red rock formations, huge sandstone spires, and plenty of open scenery. It's also dog friendly, with leashed dogs allowed on the trails.