Český Krumlov, Czechia: One of the Best Small Towns in Europe

 

I've visited a lot of small towns throughout Europe, and Český Krumlov in Czechia is easily one of my favorites. It's a gorgeous medieval town with a massive castle, cobblestone streets, historic breweries, excellent restaurants, and some surprisingly great nightlife. The Vltava River winds through the town, almost completely surrounding the historic center. There are beautiful views around every corner, and the entire old town feels like something out of a fairy tale. The best part is that Český Krumlov is also incredibly affordable compared to many of Europe's more popular destinations.


We spent two nights in Český Krumlov, which I thought was the perfect amount of time. It’s very small and you’ll never need a car while you’re in town. We rented a massive two-bedroom Airbnb right on the river with beautiful views for only $100 per night. There were plenty of restaurants, bars, and shops within walking distance of our apartment. Český Krumlov is a popular day trip from Prague, but I would highly recommend staying overnight. There's plenty to do in the evenings, and the town is especially beautiful after the day-trip crowds leave.

Exploring Český Krumlov Castle and the Old Town

The biggest attraction in town is the enormous Český Krumlov Castle, which sits high above the Vltava River. It's the second-largest castle complex in Czechia, behind Prague Castle, and dates back to the 13th century. You can wander through the castle courtyards, explore the grounds, and enjoy some incredible views overlooking the red rooftops of the old town. One of the more unusual features is the castle's bear moat, where live brown bears have been kept for centuries. You can actually look down into the moat while walking through the castle grounds. One of my favorite parts of the castle is the Cloak Bridge, a massive multi-level stone bridge built high above a ravine. The bridge connects different sections of the castle and offers some of the best views in the entire town. You can look down over the river, churches, medieval buildings, and surrounding hills. The castle's colorful Renaissance tower is another highlight, and you can climb it for even more panoramic views. Even if you don't want to pay for a guided tour of the castle interiors, there's plenty to explore just walking around the grounds and courtyards.


The old town itself is just as impressive as the castle. There are narrow cobblestone streets, colorful medieval buildings, little bridges crossing the river, and plenty of outdoor restaurants and cafes. You really don't need much of a plan here. Just walk around and explore. The historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and there are very few modern buildings to spoil the atmosphere. It's one of those towns where you can spend hours wandering around without ever getting bored.

Rafting the Vltava River

The best thing to do in Český Krumlov is rafting on the Vltava River. We had a fantastic experience with Maleček Rafting & Canoe, and I would highly recommend them. They take you to the starting point, drop you off with your raft or canoe, and let you float down the river at your own pace. It's a great way to see the town from an entirely different perspective. You float past medieval buildings, underneath bridges, and alongside the towering castle walls. Some of the best views of the castle are actually from the water.

What makes the rafting especially fun are the small dams along the river. These have designated boat chutes that act like little waterslides. You paddle toward the chute and slide down into the river below. They're a lot of fun and add a little excitement to what is otherwise a relaxing float. Just follow the marked routes and the rafting company's instructions, since conditions can change with the water level. I would absolutely make time for this activity if you're visiting during rafting season.

Where to Eat: Krčma Šatlava

My favorite restaurant in Český Krumlov was Krčma Šatlava. We ate there both days we were in town. This place is fantastic, and it's one of the more memorable restaurants I've visited in Europe. It's a medieval-style tavern located in the historic center, with stone walls, wooden tables, and a huge open fire where they cook meat right in front of you. The atmosphere is incredible. They grill all kinds of meat over the flames, and the entire restaurant smells amazing. It's the kind of place that fits perfectly into a town like Český Krumlov.

If you enjoy traditional Czech food, grilled meats, and good beer, definitely put this restaurant on your list. It's a unique dining experience without the ridiculously high prices you might expect from a restaurant in such a popular tourist destination. I would recommend making a reservation, especially if you're visiting on a weekend.

Historic Breweries and Great Nightlife

Czechia is famous for its beer, and Český Krumlov has a long brewing history dating back to medieval times. The town has historic brewery buildings associated with the Eggenberg and Schwarzenberg families, and beer has been produced here for hundreds of years. Today, Krumlov Brewery, located in the historic brewery complex at Port 1560, continues that tradition. You can tour the brewery, learn about the town's brewing history, and sample locally produced beer. There are also plenty of traditional Czech pubs where you can sit down for an inexpensive beer.

One thing that really surprised me about Český Krumlov was how good the nightlife was for such a small town. There are some excellent cocktail bars, and you don't need to go very far to find them. Apotheka Cafe Bar is one of the best places for cocktails. It's located in a historic building that once housed a pharmacy, and the interior has a great old-world atmosphere. Music & Cocktail Bar, located at Hotel Zlatý Anděl on the main square, is another fun place with cocktails, music, and a dance floor.

A couple of other bars worth checking out are Zapa Bar and Maniqo. Zapa is a great little cocktail bar with a unique interior built partly into the rock, while Maniqo has more of a modern lounge atmosphere with cocktails, music, and DJs. For something completely different, check out Pension Bluegrass Club, a cozy pub a little outside the busiest part of town. It has a big fireplace, traditional pub atmosphere, beer, and occasional live music. There really is a surprisingly good variety of bars here, whether you want a quiet drink or somewhere to stay out late.

Český Krumlov has just about everything I look for in a European destination: incredible medieval architecture, a spectacular castle, a beautiful river, outdoor activities, great restaurants, historic pubs, and excellent nightlife. It's also very walkable and surprisingly inexpensive. I've visited some amazing small towns throughout Europe, but Český Krumlov is definitely near the top of my list. It's one of the best small towns in Europe I've ever visited.

Rafting the Vltava river in Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov

Cloak Bridge in Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov

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Rafting the Merced River in Yosemite National Park

Yosemite Falls view from the Merced River

One of the best things to do in Yosemite National Park during the summer is rafting down the Merced River. It's a great way to see Yosemite Valley from a completely different perspective, with incredible views of Yosemite Falls along the way. The river runs right through the middle of the valley, and much of the trip is fairly calm, making it a relaxing way to spend a couple of hours on the water. You don't need any rafting experience, but you should be comfortable paddling and swimming.

The rafting trip starts near Curry Village and follows the Merced River downstream through Yosemite Valley to Sentinel Beach. Along the way, you'll float past meadows, wooded sections of the river, and some of Yosemite's best scenery. The entire route is approximately three miles long, and you can generally expect to spend around two hours on the water, depending on the river conditions and how often you stop. There are some sections with a little faster-moving water, but this isn't whitewater rafting. It's primarily a scenic float with some paddling. Once you reach Sentinel Beach, a shuttle will take you back to Curry Village, so you don't have to worry about arranging transportation. The rafting shuttle isn’t super consistent, so I usually just drop my raft off and take the free Yosemite shuttle to my next destination.

The rafting season typically runs during the summer, but it can be shorter or longer depending on snowmelt and river flow. High or low water conditions can make the river unrunable. Bring sunscreen, sunglasses, water, and clothes that you don't mind getting wet. There isn't much shade on certain sections of the river, and the sun can be pretty intense in Yosemite Valley. One of the best things about the river is that you can bring a beer or two to drink on the river if you’re 21. But don’t bring bottles. Only cans are allowed.

The best place to park is in the Curry Village lot, although the lot can fill up quickly in the morning. Try to get to the rental office early the day you want to rent a raft. They open at 8am. The rafts are first come, first served and they often sell out around 10am. They don’t take reservations.

Bringing your own kayak
Alternatively, you can also float the river if you bring your own raft. There are no age restrictions on the river if you bring your own kayak or raft. I would advise against trying to float in a round tube without a paddle. I see multiple people on every trip try to use a tube, tip over on the fast moving sections at the bridge, and lose their raft and their belongings. The best way to do it is with an inflatable kayak. Literally any brand of inflatable kayak is good enough. I love the Intex brand kayaks. I see them all the time for less than $100 on Amazon. You can deflate the kayak at the end of the river and bring it on the Yosemite shuttle with you for free as long as it fits in your lap. I bring a little rope with me and cinch it down so I can carry it like a backpack.

Merced River, Yosemite National Park

Rafts on the Merced River in Yosemite National Park

Yosemite Falls in Yosemite National Park

Raft Rental Information for Yosemite National Park

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Adventures in Southern California now has its own online newspaper

Adventures in Southern California is now an online newspaper. I've compiled literally hundreds of twitter feeds, rss feeds and hiking blogs into a digital newspaper. I've collected feeds from all over the world that focus on hiking, backpacking, gear reviews, biking, climbing, rafting, boarding, food and traveling with a special emphasis on Southern California. I'm adding new websites to my feed every day. Feel free to send me a message if you would like to add your website or blog to my feed. The newspaper updates every 24 hours with all new content, so check in as frequently as you like. If you follow the archives tab near the top of the newspaper, you can check out all of the hiking stories you might have missed. Check it out here: https://paper.li/AdventureSoCal/1394392412

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Lava Hot Springs Idaho

Lava Hot Springs, Idaho

On a recent road trip to Yellowstone National Park, I booked a room for the night in a little town called Lava Hot Springs Idaho.  It was one of the best places we stopped on the whole trip, and when you’re talking about a trip to Yellowstone National Park, that’s a bold statement to make.  Lava Hot Springs is the quintessential American town you see on old postcards.  It’s situated on the original route of the old Oregon Trail. It’s most famous for the natural hot spring baths located throughout the town.

The tiny town of 400 people is actually situated in a river valley. Main Street runs parallel with the Portneuf river. There are about 6 different places in town where you can rent a tube, catch a shuttle and then ride the river as it twists  through town. Be warned: my girlfriend and I both ended up with a few well deserved battlescars when we went over one of the waterfalls in the wrong spot. There were about ten different signs warning us, but we saw the locals doing it, so we followed them. Because the river is fed by several hot springs, the water temperature is pretty mild compared to most mountain streams.  I would estimate it was around 60 degrees. In contrast, the Snake River in Jackson Wyoming is 42 degrees in June.

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